Planet
2018 marked a pivotal moment as debates of the detrimental environmental implications of the fashion industry broke into mainstream media. Although this was one of the first times global media attention was given to the topic, criticisms of a shift to a consumerist society and its environmental effects date back to the 1960’s with books like Silent Spring (Carson, 1962) highlighting the damages of textile production. Since then, attempts have been made to decrease these effects with the creation of so-called sustainable fabrics such as lyocell in the 1990’s (Hethorn & Ulasewicz, 2015).However, mass consumption made these advances somewhat obsolete as in 2012 it was reported that each UK consumer on average contribute 30KG of textile waste per capita (Wrap 2012). The media out brake in 2018 served to amplify the Sustainable Development Goals set out 3 years prior in 2015 by the United Nations which urged for sustainability and circular economy to be the frameworks of the fashion industry.
Conde Nast defines sustainability in four different sections: cultural, social, environmental, and economical, and emphasises how these four sections are interdependent. Environmental sustainability is defined as “recognizing our connectedness to and dependence on nature and cultivating lifestyles that fit well within the limits of planetary boundaries.” (Conde Nast, 2022). The dependence of sustainability on an ever-changing entity like the planet highlights the importance of sustainability and how it should be viewed as a “a process of change”. This is highlighted in the Brundtland Report 1987 as emphasis is given to “ensuring present generations do not compromise the ability of future generations to meet their own needs” (Conde Nast, 2022). However, this definition could be questioned as whether it truly promotes environmental sustainability as the determining factor is based upon the continuation of humans’ ability to reap the planet for profit, rather than the halting of planetary destruction.
In a capitalist society, true sustainability may be entirely impossible as there will always be items being created in search of profit. This highlights the importance of The Ellen MacArthur Foundation, one of the key figures researching and promoting ideas of a circular economy which date back to the 1970’s.
Circular economy attempts to eradicate all unsustainable practices within a garment’s life with their three main principles: “design out waste and pollution; keep products and materials in use; and regenerate natural systems.” The Foundation teamed with influential brands like H&M and Nike Inc in 2017 to outline their model of a circular economy, with emphasis given to textiles “re-entering the economy after use, never ending up as waste.” (Gwilt, 2019). Although this model promotes change, the use of a fast-fashion brand like H&M to promote sustainability is contradictory to Sustainable Development Goal 12: Responsible Consumption and Production. The recycling of materials although a positive change, can be viewed as an act of greenwashing as it still enables over-consumption and allows for fast fashion to function.
Bibliography
Condenast.com. 2020. Condé Nast Launches The Sustainable Fashion Glossary. https://www.condenast.com/news/conde-nast-launches-sustainable-fashion-glossary
Gwilt, A. (2020). A Practical Guide to Sustainable Fashion. London: Fairchild Books.
Hethorn, J., & Ulasewicz, C. (eds). (2015). Sustainable Fashion: What’s Next? A Conversation about Issues, Practices and Possibilities. New York: Bloomsbury
Moran, G. (2022) Drapers, Collaborating for Change: Sustainability Report 2022